Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Last Post from London

Like many visitors to London, I've been finding myself endlessly intrigued and amused by the names of the stops on the London Underground (known to a handful of London insiders as the "Tube"). Most stops, such as Westminster or Gloucester Road, have an obvious relationship with their locations and are simply terribly English-sounding without being especially amusing. But some manage to be both impeccably English and amusing. On the District Line alone (which is the one I've been taking most often to get in and out of Kew) there are the delightfully named Hornchurch, Upney, Upminster, Dagenham Heathway, Bromley-By-Bow, West Ham, and Barking stops. Over on the Northern Line there's the ever-popular Elephant and Castle, along with Balham, Tooting Bec, and Tooting Broadway, all clustered in there together like three slightly childish punchlines to three slightly childish jokes. If asked to name a favorite, most teenage boys would probably choose Cockfosters on the Piccadilly Line, or perhaps (among the more imaginative) Shepherd's Bush, which can be found both on the Central and the Hammersmith & City Lines.

I also must confess to taking a certain puerile pleasure in these unintentionally lewd names, a widespread British phenomenon which, as the New York Times recently reported, is by no means restricted to London (thanks, Ely!). But if I had to choose only one station name to take home with me, I believe it'd have to be Turnham Green, just a few stops away from Kew Gardens on the District Line. This is because a) it kind of looks like Turnip Green, and b) when you say it aloud (and if you're the automated voice on the trains, you do this quite often) it sounds like Turn 'Em Green. And that invariably makes me smile.

The newest Underground line is the Jubilee Line, which opened in 1979 and was substantially expanded in 1999. As far as I know, there are no plans to open a new one anytime soon, but if a new line ever is constructed, I believe it should be called the Buffet Line and should include the following stops (at a minimum): Steakfries, Chutney Common, Lambshanks, Chewingham, Burgerloo, Bluebury, Spooning, Curdsenwhey, Mustardly, and Ham-On-Rye. I'm getting hungry just thinking about it.

---

I was in Berlin this past weekend visiting friends and eating currywursts. This is the second time I've been to Berlin in the last year, and it's very quickly become one of my favorite cities. This despite the fact that (much like London) it was grey and damp and muddy and bleak this time around (less so last June). But even in the sunshine Berlin is a fairly unattractive city, with lots of bland modern buildings, windswept plazas, lots and lots of graffiti, and, in the east, block after block of concrete GDR-era abominations that still manage to oppress the senses nearly 20 years after the Wall fell. Berlin also has no identifiable city center - the Potsdamer Platz is more like a vast, traffic-snarled black hole than a proper urban focal point - and it has serious social and economic problems. But still I love it, and believe I need to spend more time in it. Unlike flashier cities like, say, Florence, Berlin's charms are elusive. It takes a lot of exploring - best done one neighborhood at a time, as my brother and I learned this summer - to find its essence. It's also a city with many different layers of history poking out all over the place: remnants of the Cold War and the Third Reich are, of course, inescapable, but there are also fragments from the nineteenth century and beyond, if you know where to look. Like New Orleans, life in Berlin feels a little tentative, a little improvised, and this gives rise to all sorts of strange and wonderful clashes and convergences.

For example: I went out walking with my friends Verena and Thomas, their new baby, and a couple of their friends one drizzly afternoon after brunch. We passed a spooky old abandoned (or apparently abandoned) circus that looked like this:


Unexpectedly, we then took a left turn past the circus and through a deserted grove of skeletal trees and emerged amidst a bunch of graffitied ruins. They looked like this:

Even more unexpectedly, we then saw flocks of Berliners out sunning themselves (the sun had come out briefly, though it was still quite cold) amidst the ruins. They looked like this:

And then we saw joggers. And children riding bikes. Old women with dogs. It was like they were in the Public Garden in Boston or Central Park in New York, but instead they were in some grubby, boggy park in Kreuzberg. And nobody thought it was at all strange.

(More Berlin pictures are here.)

I don't mean to give the impression that all of Berlin is like this. There are plenty of posh areas, touristy areas, beautiful palaces, and neighborhoods that would look right at home in some Mediterranean seaside town (I had some amazing Brazilian tomato soup in one of the latter, Prinzlauerburg, yesterday). But it's the sort of city that, I believe, repays repeated visits - indeed, the sort of city that is probably better to live in than to travel to - and if I could figure out how, I think I'd do just that.

PS. I found this map of the Tube with all of the station names translated into German. If you sprechen the Deutsch and know the Tube, take a look - it's pretty great.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

I'm In London Still

Ladies and gentlemen, the Waifs.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Obauguration, London Style

A few nights ago I found myself having dinner in a pub near Notting Hill. A young American girl was tending bar and talking excitedly about inauguration day. "Yeah," she said, "I don't have to work, so I'm planning to drink champagne all day long!" She was excited, she said, because someone she'd helped to elect (she'd voted for Obama and donated to his campaign) had actually been elected - only she was a little bummed that the election didn't really affect her life, now that she wasn't living in the States anymore.

I and the other patrons - primarily a staggering handful of local drunks - held our tongues, but I'm pretty sure we all knew better.

Because of course Obama's election will affect her life, as it will those of people all over the world, not just those living in America. That's why I believe everyone who is not an American citizen should get precisely one-half vote in our presidential elections. It's only fair - it might not matter to me who the prime minister of Iceland is, but it really does matter to most people in the world who the president of the US is. And most people out here in the rest of the world know it. The London papers have been all over this thing - not only giving the inauguration itself wall-to-wall coverage with a level of detail and insight that you wouldn't find even in most American newspapers (in fact, I rather wonder if the Daily Oklahoman is covering the inauguration at all), but also running multi-part inserts on things like "The Lives of the Presidents" and so forth. The same is true of the TV stations which, when not showing some snooker tournament, have been running special after special examining Obama, the American presidency, and American politics from every conceivable angle.

There were, as you might expect, many Obama happenings around London today. Krispy Kreme Donuts offered a free americano coffee to anyone who came up to the counter and said "yes we can!" The irony being, of course, that there's nothing remotely American about the americano, which is just espresso and hot water - it's what British cafes serve when they don't have actual drip coffee makers, and it's usually a very poor approximation. Madame Tussauds, to celebrate the unveiling of their new Obama statue, kicked it up a notch by offering free admission to anyone with an American passport (that's a savings of 25 pounds, folks). TGI Fridays, which has a distressingly large presence here, advertised "The World's Largest Inauguration Party," which would include a simultaneous toast of Jack-and-Coke at 9pm and free Friday's buttons for everybody. And, perhaps most intriguing of all, the Hard Rock Cafe promised that an "Obama lookalike" would appear during their screening of the event. One can only imagine what that might have turned out to be.

I, being a good research monkey, attended none of these events - though believe me, gentle reader, I was sorely tempted to do so, that I might then be able to report to you what I saw and felt. I did, however, allow myself to knock off an hour early and watch the inauguration in a nearby pub - a pub several blocks away that I'd scouted out the day before, after learning that the pub closest to the British Library (the Euston Flyer) was only planning to show the inauguration if there wasn't any football on. By which, I believe, they meant soccer.

And I'm afraid there's not much more to report. The pub was full of American college students, everyone clapped in all the right places, was silent in all the right places, and began losing interest around the time the poet laureate came on. The BBC announcers may have misidentified the song Aretha Franklin sang as the "national anthem," and they may also have dwelled a little too long on how high the risk was that Obama would be assassinated, but otherwise it all went fairly smoothly.

I guess there was one thing. For the first time that I can remember in all the time I've spent abroad, I didn't feel ashamed to be an American. No, that's not quite right: I actually felt proud. Not only of the guy standing behind the podium on TV, but of all the clapping, laughing, drinking Americans sitting happily around me. Firmly, unmistakably proud.

But I'll concede that I may not have felt that way if I'd spent the day at TGI Fridays.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Oh yeah? Then how do you explain Pop Tarts?

There's an ad campaign that's causing quite a stir over here in the ol' U of K. It seems a group of godless heathens calling themselves the British Humanists Association, with the assistance of some crank named Richard Dawkins, have taken out ads on British buses informing people that there is, in all likelihood, no God. In fact, what the ads say is, "There's Probably No God. Now Stop Worrying and Enjoy Your Life."

I've seen these ads on a few buses and have even tried to take some photos for you, but those buggers move too damn fast. So here's a photo from the web:


Now I know what you're all thinking: dang, atheists are cute! Oh, and also, isn't Europe already like 98.7% atheist? Why bother shelling out money for an ad campaign that tells people what they already know?

I'm afraid I'm not really able to answer that question, but I can tell you this: there are some folks around here who are taking considerable exception to the ads. In the (strangely named) town of Southampton, a Christian bus driver has refused to drive any bus bearing the ad, although whether he has taken similar exception to driving buses with ads for violent or exploitative movies and/or video games is unclear. Predictably, some of the most vocal opposition has come from Northern Ireland, where hard-line Protestant politicians have been working themselves into a right ol' tizzy over the prospect of any similar ads showing up in their fair land. If Dawkins & Co. know what's good for them, they'll steer well clear of that hornet's nest.

As for me, I've been on London buses, and I can tell you that being told that there is no God just before boarding one of those lurching behemoths is the very opposite of comforting. It's downright terrifying. The same goes for trying to navigate the streets on foot with those monsters careening all over the place. There is no God? Fine - but don't expect me suddenly to stop worrying and start blissfully skipping down the lane. If there is no God then that means human beings are in charge, and that is a troubling notion not only with respect to public transport in London, but to a whole bunch of other things as well.

Friday, January 16, 2009

Save the Last Silly British Stick Dance for Me

There is (I hear) grave concern in some corners of this sceptred isle that the great British tradition of Morris Dancing is dying a rapid death, and there's even talk among its practitioners that in 20 years there'll be no one left in Britain who is capable of carrying on this glorious and not at all ridiculous piece of Britain's cultural heritage. To combat this problem, advocates of Morris Dancing are visiting schools and malls to try to encourage young people to take it up.

Apparently, they're having some difficulty convincing the little turds to give Morris Dancing a go. See if you can guess why.



As part of my ongoing effort to save Britain from itself, therefore, I hereby resolve that, should I ever move to London, the second thing I'll do, right after joining the P. G. Wodehouse Society (UK), is strap on a pair of knee-bells, grab the nearest stick, and join up with a group of Morris Dancers. Perhaps these guys. They look like fun.

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Standing In the Kew - er, Queue

There's a wonderful old play by Israel Horovitz (who happens to be the father of Beastie Boy Adam Horovitz, AKA Adrock) called Line that I saw some time ago in Philadelphia. One by one, five characters appear on a blank stage and begin to form a line. They're not sure what they're waiting for, but before long they're scheming and lying and cheating and manipulating one another to get to the front of the line. It's a satire of America's win-at-all-costs culture, and it was quite amusing.

I thought of this play the other morning when I showed up early at the British Library to begin the day's research. I knew the reading room didn't open until 9:30, but I thought I might be able to get into the main part of the library and/or the cafe and grab a cup of coffee beforehand, so I arrived about 9:07. When I walked up I noticed three men standing by the door, which indicated to me that they hadn't yet opened. So I stood there for a few minutes considering my next move, thinking they may still open the door a little before 9:30, but after about 10 minutes I decided that wasn't going to happen and I should probably go for a walk or at least go sit on a bench. When I turned to go, however, I saw that a massive line - sorry, queue - had formed behind me. I mean massive, snaking all the way across the plaza and almost onto the street. So I decided to stay put - damned if I was gonna lose my place in line! And then I remembered how one of the things you always hear about the English is that they'll queue up for anything. And then I remembered how I love it when people live up to their national stereotypes, and I smiled.

Maybe if this were an American line there would, indeed, be shoving and conniving and trickery to get to the front, but I can tell you this: if this were in, say, Spain, or maybe Italy, there wouldn't be a queue at all, just a great throng of people pressed up against the windows, gesticulating wildly. Not that the people running the library in Spain or Italy would be quite the sticklers for punctuality that the folks at the British Library are - for at 9:30 on the dot, not a second earlier or later, the doors slid open and the queue passed slowly inside. It was all very civilized.

The next morning, having learned my lesson, I showed up only 3 minutes early. And sure enough, there was the queue. This time I was ready with the camera:



See?

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Mind Your Peas and Kews

Call me a romantic or a fuddy duddy or both, but I love it when places are the way they're supposed to be. I'm all for embracing change and all that crap, mind you, but I also like it when, say, I come across a rude French waiter or a Texan who says "yee-haw" unironically and spouts homey aphorisms like Dr Phil. I guess you could say that I enjoy it when people live up to their stereotypes - I dunno, I guess I find it reassuring.

With that prejudice in mind, I've been collecting things that I have overheard or come across here in London that seem to me to be quintessentially English things to say - things that you will almost never hear anywhere else, unless you're somewhere else with a bunch of English people. Some things are too ubiquitous to even be worth noting - e.g., "mind the gap" for "don't fall in the hole" or "ta" for "thanks" (the latter drives me a little bit bonkers, actually, but never mind) - and some things are so cartoonish that you'll never actually hear any English person saying them, e.g., "Oh, I say, jolly good, old boy!" or "Fetch the car, Jeeves." Although I should most dearly love to hear one or the other in real life before I die.

Thus far, my collection amounts to the following:

1) "Wank! Wank! Wankers!! Wank! Wank! Wankers!!" - shouted by a crazy man walking through Piccadilly Circus.

2) "Are you being a cheeky monkey?" - said by a father to his misbehaving child in Kew Gardens.

3) "He's a lean and hungry snooker machine!" - uttered by an announcer during a snooker tournament on TV (I quite like the Shakespeare reference here).

4) "I'll have the mushy peas, please." - overheard at the table next to me while eating fish and chips.

5) And this, which appears in the back of a paperback copy of Carry On, Jeeves, by P. G. Wodehouse, that I bought this evening:

The P. G. Wodehouse Society (UK)

The P. G. Wodehouse Society (UK) was formed in 1997 to promote the enjoyment of the writings of the twentieth century's greatest humorist [sic]. The Society publishes a quarterly magazine, Wooster Sauce, which includes articles, features, reviews, and current Society news. Occasional special papers are also published. Society events include regular meetings in central London, cricket matches and a formal biennial dinner, along with other activities. The Society actively supports the preservation of the Berkshire pig, a rare breed, in honour of the incomparable Empress of Blandings.

[There follows information on how to join the Society]

If I moved to London, I believe the first thing I would do, even before finding an apartment, would be to join the P. G. Wodehouse Society (UK). I expect you all to hold me to that.

---

Instead of a traditional "work ethic," I believe I have what is best described as a crushing sense of guilt that kicks in anytime I'm not doing something academicky. There's always another book I need to be reading, another paper I need to be grading, a lecture I need to be working on, an article that needs revising. My fellow academics will know what I'm talking about - and they will also know that this academic guilt doesn't necessarily mean that I spend all my time working, it just means that I'm unable to goof off without a nagging feeling that I really need to be doing something more important. Well, the nice thing about travelling somewhere specifically to do archival research is that your working hours are more-or-less dictated by the opening hours of the libraries you're working in, and, if you happen to be working in the UK or Ireland, that means that most days you're only able to work from about 9am to 5-6pm, with maybe a late night on Thursdays, and nothing at all on Sunday. You can always do stuff outside the library, of course, but the early closing hours give you an alibi, enabling you to feel slightly less degenerate if you take evenings and Sundays off.

So that's what I've been doing. Last Sunday I went to the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew (just down the road from where I'm staying) and was delighted to find that, even though it's the middle of winter, there wwere still plenty of beautiful things to look at, especially in the glass houses. I am, however, less into botany than I am into colonialism, and so I was doubly excited to learn just how central Kew had been to the colonial economy that developed in the 18th and 19th centuries. For instance, did you know that the gardeners at Kew were responsible for transplanting rubber cultivation from South America to places like Malaysia and Sri Lanka? No, I bet you did not. To stroll through Kew is to stroll through a living museum of the British Empire - like the artifacts on display at the British Museum or the colonial subjects whose "traditional" societies were recreated at all those old imperial exhibitions, the plants at Kew show British imperialism at its giddy, acquisitive best. In fact, once it was opened to the public in the 1840s it became one of the most popular ways through which ordinary people could experience and appreciate the fruits of empire - pun intended.

Anyways, I took me some photos of the purty plants. They're here.

The other thing I've been doing in my off hours is going to a new neighborhood every night for dinner, with a bit of London rambling built into the agenda. Luckily, I've already seen a whole lot of London during the daytime, so it's kind of exciting to see these places in their eveningwear. I've also taken a few photos on these excursions. They're here.

The nighttime photos will probably be updated several times over the next two weeks, so check back often! (I'd hate for y'all to miss anything.)

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Of Underwear and Silver Linings

There's a store in the UK called Primark. In Ireland it's called Penney's, but it's really the same thing. They sell clothes and other household items of reasonable quality and questionable style for virtually nothing. And when I say "virtually nothing," I don't mean "cheap for the UK but would be outrageously overpriced in any normal country" - I mean really, virtually nothing. When I was living hand-to-mouth in Ireland/Northern Ireland five years ago, I bought any clothes that I happened to need at Penney's/Primark because it was by far the cheapest way to clothe myself short of growing my own cotton and weaving and spinning and sewing it myself, and, let's face it, the overhead on that sort of operation would have been prohibitive. Several of the items - a pair of cargo pants, some shorts - wore out pretty quickly, but several of them I still own and wear. I'm thinking particularly of the half-dozen black and grey boxer briefs that have become central to my wardrobe and that had, until the past few months, held up remarkably well for the amount of use and abuse they get week in, week out.

So when my suitcase failed to arrive by Friday evening and I had given up hope of ever seeing it again (I left for London on Tuesday), I vowed that I would not wear the same socks, t-shirt, and underwear for a fifth day, and my thoughts turned immediately to Primark. A quick web search (incidentally, I heard today that the carbon footprint of doing one Google search is the equivalent of running an electric kettle - can that be right?) revealed that there is a Primark just down the District Line from here in Hammersmith, and so I hopped on over. After a brief, and entirely unnecessary, perambulation around the entire circumference of the Hammersmith Underground Station, I found the Primark, grabbed a handful of 1.67-pound t-shirts (that's sterling, not lbs), 10 socks at 5-for-2-pounds, and bunches and bunches of my favorite underwear. I've learned that Primark is best for buying things that very few people will ever actually see you wearing, so I steered clear of the shirts and jeans, checked out, and handed over my 20 pounds with a smile and a gleam in my eye.

You know what's coming, right? Well, after a nice moonlight walk along the Thames and a small meal at a small pub with a small crowd of mostly old people, I hopped back onto the Tube, opened the door to Yaya's house, and there was my suitcase, big as life, standing in the hallway. The bastards had come while I was out shopping, and now I had a backpack full of mostly extraneous clothing that I can't actually fit in my luggage. The solution, however, is obvious: I'll wear my old tattered socks and underwear and t-shirts one more time over the coming week - give them a sort of valedictory circuit - and then chuck them in the bin, replacing them with my brand-new, virtually-free items from Primark. I've never been this excited about underwear in my life. Well, almost never.

---

Okay, so the baggage thing has been less than ideal, but let me share with you something that I bet you didn't know, and which, upon learning it myself, briefly made me forget my suitcase woes. This is that steak & kidney pudding is not really pudding. I know! But wait, here's the cool part: it's still really, really good. At least it is at this place called Porter's near Covent Garden. Porter's is a little on the touristy side (the only other people in there on Thursday night were an older American couple), but it's also one of the only "traditional" English restaurants left in London - at least one of the few that doesn't also serve items from the Tikka Masala family - and its slightly Epcot Centerish atmosphere is mitigated by the Tina Turner and George Michael hits that blare, tinnily, from the overhead speakers. Porter's also has lots of pies - Shepherd's Pie, Leek-and-Potato Pie, Lamb-and-Apricot Pie - and you all know how I love pie, so I may just go back there before I leave. Anyway, here's what the steak & kidney pudding looked like:



For dessert, I considered ordering the spotted dick, but they sell that at Marks & Spencer's, so I demured.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Dispatch from Yaya's Room

I'm sitting in the bedroom of a girl whom I'll call Yaya. Yaya is, I believe, a teenage girl, and, although I've never met her, I know several important things about her, such as: she likes cats; she reads Philip Pullman books (though what she thinks of them I don't know); and she enjoys wearing large, chunky jewellry.

How do I know these things about Yaya? Well, you might say I'm living in her room.

See, I've come to London - Kew, to be precise, on the southwestern edge of town - to do a bit of research at the National Archives here and (though this is further into the city) at the British Library. I'm beginning a new project and hoping to cram as much research into the next three weeks as I can before I have to get back to The Valley to renew those Thursday lunches - and my fellowship comes with a research stipend, so it's pretty much a cost-free trip for me, which is kind of fabulous.

Now, as many of you know, London can be a very expensive place to stay. It's become much less expensive now that the exchange rate is a little less insane - about $1.44 to the pound instead of $2.00 - but it's stil quite pricey, especially when it comes to accommodations. Enter Yaya. Or, more precisely, Yaya's parents, who live in Kew and rent out several rooms in their home on a weekly basis. It's probably the cheapest lodging in London, steps away from the archives and the Tube, and it's a lovely little house. The only thing is that, well, I'm living in their daughter's bedroom.

It's one of the strangest places I've ever been.

When I arrived yesterday, I was greeted by a tiny, elderly Vietnamese housekeeper whom I'd been warned spoke only French. I don't know about her French, but I can verify that English is not a language with which she is conversant. She was expecting me, however, and kindly showed me upstairs to my room. I was briefly taken aback by the sign proclaiming the room to belong to Yaya, and further informing me that behind the bedroom door lay a "dungeon." My uncertainty intensified when, on entering the room, I noticed that the room was full of stuff - teenage girl stuff - and I had the strange feeling that I was trespassing or, worse, that Yaya might return home any minute. Had the housekeeper been able to understand me I would have somehow sought to confirm that I was, in fact, in the right place, but that wasn't really an option and, besides, she seemed completely nonplussed - indeed, slightly bored - by my presence, so I stepped inside and looked around. Sure enough, there were the promised mini-fridge and microwave, along with a toaster, an electric kettle, and a handful of plates and mugs and pieces of silverware. Clearly, I was not the first lodger to sleep in Yaya's room.

I was jetlagged and so I took a nap in Yaya's bed. I should point out here that my suitcase had gone missing somewhere during my layover in Halifax (as of this writing it's still yet to arrive), and so, lacking any pajamas, I took my pants off before getting in bed. A little while later, after I'd dozed off, the door opened and in walked another lady, who - thankfully - was not Yaya but Yaya's mother, the proprietess of the house, who'd come in to retrieve the keys the housekeeper had given me and replace them with another set. I was groggy and embarassed, unable to get out of bed because I was pantless, and fell back asleep after muttering a few things for her and, I believe, frightening her slightly.

When I woke up again it was mid-afternoon and time to pop down to the archives to get my reader's ticket and get my bearings, which I did, and then when I came back I ran into Yaya's mother again and had a slightly more lucid conversation in which I learned: a) there are at least 3 other lodgers in the house (although I've yet to meet any of them); b) Yaya is off at college, so there's very little chance of her popping in unannounced; and c) there's a Marks & Spencer just down the road where I can get some cheap ready-meals to keep in my mini fridge and heat up in my microwave. Armed with this new information, I popped down to the M&S and did just that.

I've got much more to say - about the archives, living in the same socks for 3 days, steak & kidney pudding, etc - but it's late and I'm tired. Before I go, though, I want to impress upon you just how strange this place is. Imagine the home you grew up in. It's got a dining room, a living room, a nice kitchen, a study, a place to watch TV, a driveway and an entryway, carpet, stairs, and so on. Now imagine that most of the bedrooms are inhabited by perfect strangers who pay you to live there. They don't spend any time in the kitchen or living room or dining room - they just pop into the entryway (where they take off their shoes), and scramble upstairs to their rooms while you go about living your life in the rest of the house. This is what life is like for Yaya's parents (there's a father, too - I know because I've briefly glimpsed him around a corner). Now imagine that you're one of the strangers living in this family's house. That's me.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

So You Think You Want to Be a Historian – The Historian Party

Every winter, thousands of historians migrate to a major US city for what’s known officially as the American Historical Association’s Annual Meeting, and unofficially (which is to say, by me) as the Historian Party. If you are a historian or are intending to become one, this annual migration will become an important part of your year, and its characteristics are therefore worth examining in some detail.

If you travel to the Historian Party, which you will do only if you have a paper to present or a job for which to interview – and for no other conceivable reason whatsoever – you will immediately notice that historians look an awful lot like historians. Indeed, a Martian visitor alighting from his or her flying saucer in the midst of the Historian Party would, without much trouble at all, quickly surmise that he or she (or it) was in the midst of a gathering of historians. This Martian would not for one minute, for instance, imagine that he or she (or it) had happened upon a Shriners convention, or a gastroenterologists conference, or even (though this may surprise you) a Philosopher Party, so much do historians look like historians. They are, on the whole, a beardy, scarfy, cardigany lot (I’m talking here about historians, not Martians), although their cardigans and scarves (if not their beards) are often draped in long black woolen coats. This is because the gathering always happens in early January, usually in cities where the only way to remain warm is to wear a long black woolen coat. Indeed, any bright colors you may spot during the Historian Party are almost certain to belong not to historians but to interlopers such as book reps, spouses, or the janitorial staff.

The uniformity of the historians’ uniforms can make it difficult for the uninitiated to differentiate amongst them, but a practiced observer can easily spot subtle differences. The following guidelines may help you identify some of the more common types of historians you are likely to encounter:

1) A historian wearing a bowtie is almost certainly a diplomatic or military historian, and his (it will always be a him) area of expertise will be 20th-century America.

2) Many, many historians will have freshly-shaved, shiny bald heads, and they will be wearing thick-rimmed glasses. These will almost always be male, and, though you may initially assume that they are gay, they are not. They will, however, specialize in intellectual history and/or gender history, with a particular interest in the history of the family.

3) There will also be women at the Historian Party, of course, whom you will be able to spot by their longish hair and distinctive lack of necktie. In fact, many of these women will be stylish, charming, and coolly self-possessed, although they will look slightly bewildered by the beardy commotion around them. All of these women specialize in the women’s suffrage movement in Britain and America.

4) You will encounter many youngish people (late 20s, early 30s) who are dressed in 3-piece suits and resemble funeral parlor directors. They will probably be fidgety and sweaty, and they will invariably be talking to themselves. These are job candidates, and you would be wise to steer clear of them.

5) Finally, you will encounter a very, very small number of historians who appear to be of a race other than Caucasian. Do not be alarmed – these historians study minor, out-of-the-way places that you don’t know or care about, like Asia, Africa, and South America, and you will never have any reason to talk with them about anything.

Once you know what to expect, a fun game you can play even before you arrive at the Historian Party – at the train station, say, or at the airport – is “Spot the Historian,” which is exactly what it sounds like. In addition to their distinctive uniforms, you can spot historians by the volume of their voices (historians usually talk quite loudly), their tendency to speak in full paragraphs (any historian who began talking when you started reading this post, for example, would only now be wrapping up his/her thesis statement), and their slightly bewildered look, as if they weren’t expecting the world outside to be quite this brightly lit.

On arriving at the Historian Party be sure to obtain your $170 name tag and program, and then think about how you’re going to apportion your time. You may be tempted to join one of the many historic walking tours promoted by the Local Arrangements Committee, but you will quickly learn that all of the available spots have already been claimed, and so you will just have to learn about “Tenement Life in 1870s New York” or “Lincoln’s Washington, DC” in some other way. Glancing through your program, you will notice many, many “panels” taking place throughout the four days of the conference. Most of these “panels” will be devoted to topics that are clearly of pressing concern to someone, but probably not to you. They will have titles like: “The Influence of the Levellers’ Social Radicalism on John Locke’s Second Treatise on Government” or “A Long Decline?: the Ottoman Empire in the Eighteenth Century.” Those “panels” not devoted to specific historical topics will be concerned with professional navel-gazing (note: these may also misleadingly be called “roundtables”), and they will have titles like: “Are There Too Few Minorities in the Historical Profession?” (answer: yes) or “Teaching European History in a Global Age.” You will note that many of these “panels” and “roundtables” are scheduled to take place simultaneously, and so you will, unfortunately, be unable to attend them all. You will have to choose, so choose wisely. And note that the only three “panels” that really interest you will invariably be scheduled to take place at the same time as one another. Try to avoid the temptation to kick something.

Let’s say you’ve decided to attend a “panel” on your first afternoon at the Historian Party. What can you expect to see? You will see a small hotel conference room with 3-4 people seated at the front of the room behind a long table, and 3-4 people seated in the audience in chairs facing the table. The speakers will be introduced by someone who clearly just met them all a few moments before, and then one by one they will stand at a podium and read a 10-12 page paper to you. Let me repeat: they will read a paper to you. One after the other, 20 minutes at a time, with minimal ad-libbing or improvising. If you’re lucky, they’ll look up from the podium from time to time. After an hour of this the room will be open to questions, during which bearded men in cardigans will ask questions of the panelists that, though masquerading as questions about the panelists’ papers, are actually questions about the questioners’ own research. A sample question: “Yes, um, I was really interested in what you said about the chaotic nature of the Third Reich’s administrative regime, and I was wondering if you’d thought about doing some sort of comparison with the Spanish Empire’s administration in 16th-century Mexico, which, as I pointed out in my latest book, was similarly chaotic but without, perhaps, the added pressure of waging a global war…” Once the questioner pauses to take a breath, you’ll have an opportunity to sneak quietly out of the room. You should probably do that.

Unless you’re actually presenting a paper at the Historian Party, however, you are most likely there because you are interviewing for a job, for this is the place where the historical profession normally conducts its initial interviews before inviting finalists for on-campus interviews. These interviews are conducted either in hotel rooms reserved individually by the interviewing schools, or in a massive, partitioned ballroom known colloquially as the “bullpen.” If your interview is in a hotel room, you can expect to spend half an hour sitting on a chair in the middle of the room (or, if the room is especially small, sitting on the bed) while 3-5 faculty members seated in a semicircle pepper you with questions, many of which they will have written on yellow legal pads sitting on their knee. As unpleasant as this sounds, it is infinitely preferable to the alternative. Should you have an interview in the “bullpen,” you can expect first to sit in a sort of waiting room, or holding pen, while you wait for one of your interviewers to come out of the larger room and call your name. While sitting in the holding pen, you will notice that you’re surrounded by all those job candidates you’ve been avoiding throughout the Party, and you will further notice that this place at this time is perhaps the worst place on earth that you could possibly be. Your companions will be shaking, sweating, red-faced, pale-faced, staring into space, making awkward conversation with one another, doing breathing exercises, talking to themselves, fidgeting, flipping through printouts, and jumping up at any sound that could vaguely be their name being called out by an interviewer. Many will be doing all of these things at once. Some will be glancing at the large television on which are scrolling the names and locations of the various schools that are interviewing. Some will be weeping openly.

On being called back into the “bullpen,” you will find yourself seated in a small, curtained-off rectangle about half the size of a standard cubicle, sitting across the table from 2-4 faculty members who will spend half an hour peppering you with questions, most of which will be written on yellow legal pads. While you’re talking, your interviewers may glance around the room and wave at people they know who happen to be walking by; you may become conscious of other interviews going on a few inches away, and you may become distracted by them; you may wish you had thought to bring a bottle of water; you may wish you had gotten some sleep the night before; and you may have a very strong and sudden urge to run away screaming. If none of these things happen, you are probably in the wrong room.

Your interview over, you are now free to enjoy the highlight of the Historian Party: the book exhibit. This room can only be accessed by flashing your $170 name tag, which will momentarily make you feel like the expense was justified, although you will quickly come to your senses. Inside, you will see booths belonging to publishers, mostly academic but some trade, who will try to entice you to buy their books and, more excitingly, to “adopt” one of their books for a course you’re teaching. The people manning these booths are bloodsucking hucksters and you musn’t make eye contact with them or they will pounce on you like a hound on a fox. Instead of wandering slowly from booth to booth, you would do best to scan the room for brightly colored signs announcing “50% Conference Discounts!” or “$3 Books This Table Only!” Pay full price for nothing, but do your best to get as many cheap-to-free books as you can find, and there will be many. But I repeat: do not look the book reps in the eye. Maybe bring some pepper spray, just to be safe.

Now that you’ve attended a panel or two, survived your interview, and loaded your luggage down with cheap books, you’re ready to get down to the real business of the Historian Party: finding a bar with your historian friends and getting well and truly annihilated. As mentioned above, the Historian Party is held in a different city each year, and the nice thing about cities is that even the crappiest ones (Atlanta, say) have bars, and even if the only bar near the hotel is a slightly offensive tiki bar that serves hot buttered rum in skull-shaped plastic mugs (Atlanta again), you will find a way to have a good time. Having a good time may require murdering Elvis’s “In The Ghetto” by turning it into a duet in a karaoke bar in Washington, DC, before collapsing into a nearby hookah bar. It may require sipping $19 glasses of red wine at the St. Regis Hotel in New York City and justifying the expense by stealing the pen that the waiter brings you to sign your credit card receipt. It may even require chugging that hot buttered rum and following it up with a scorpion bowl shared amongst four other inebriated historians. But a good time will be had, and when you wake up the next day – if you wake up the next day – you will be mighty glad that you came to the Historian Party this year. And you will vow never, ever to go back.